Oenophilic Tendencies
Wine and food pairing
By Jeannine Sano

Numerous wine experts proclaim that people should not worry about which wine goes with which dish, and that we should simply drink what we like and eat what we like, pairing be damned! Having passed only the introductory level of the examinations offered by the Court of Master Sommeliers (I am too chicken to attempt the next level of the examinations to qualify for Certified Sommelier, which requires opening and decanting a bottle of wine in front of an audience of Master Sommeliers), perhaps I should not quibble with experts on the subject. But I will, for the same reason that I do not believe I need the credentials of Nina Garcia, fashion director of Elle, to know that sneakers do not pair with an evening gown or that Manolo Blahnik pumps are not the best shoes to go with running shorts.

I have never believed that one needs to be an “expert” in order to enjoy wine. I do not even think wine classes are necessary – unless you want to learn more about winemaking or the history of wine or some other esoteric topic. Do you know anyone who takes classes in order to figure out which foods they like or how to enjoy a sandwich?

That said, I still maintain that there are appropriate wine and food pairings. Sort of like fries with a burger, or vanilla ice cream with pumpkin pie. A big, giant California Cabernet will not only obliterate the flavors and nuances of a kanpachi crudo, but the raw fish will also make the wine taste off, in the same way that sauerkraut would not be the recommended accompaniment for ice cream. Similarly, a sweet-tart New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc would not be my first pick to go with a medium-rare New York strip steak with béarnaise sauce, and a deep, resonant Châteauneuf-du-Pape would not be my choice for chilled pea soup.

I am not espousing that you rigidly follow principles like the old red-with-meat-white-with-fish rule, nor am I suggesting that you refrain from experimenting with atypical pairings. Even though I am not crazy about Beau Timken’s recommendation of pairing sake with Thanksgiving turkey, I still found it fun to try and see for myself whether I liked it. Andrew Fidelman, sommelier of Spruce in Presidio Heights, paired a Crozes-Hermitage (Syrah-based Rhone red) with chef Mark Sullivan’s lobster and gnocchi, and the unexpected combination blew me away. I love sauternes with thin slices of fatty Kobe beef dusted with crystals of sea salt, Tavel Rosé with breakfast sausage or with Kentucky Fried Chicken, and chardonnay with roast suckling pig. I am not crazy about port with chocolate, I prefer red Burgundy to any white wine to pair with salmon, and I like champagne with pizza. In other words, wine pairing should be fun, not stressful.

See for yourself what might pair with any of the wines featured in the wine events happening in September:

Pres a Vi, 1 Letterman Dr. (at Lombard), 415-409-3000, www.presavi.com:
• Lioco Wine Tasting; Tuesday, Sept. 2, 6–8 p.m.; $18/person

Farallon, 450 Post St. (at Mason), 866-KOBRAND, www.kobrandevents.com:
• Sequoia Grove Winemaker Dinner; Wednesday, Sept. 3, 6:30–9:30 p.m.; $110/person

Acquerello, 1722 Sacramento St. (at Polk), 415-567-5432, www.acquerello.com:
• Montevetrano Wine Dinner; Thursday, Sept. 4, 6:30–11 p.m.; $200/person

COPIA, 500 1st St., Napa, 888-512-6742, www.copia.org:
• Taste of COPIA Lunch; interactive cooking demo, garden talk, and lunch with wine; Fri.–Sat., Sept. 5–6 & 26–27; Friday, Sept. 12 &19; 1–2:15 p.m.; $50/person
• Heirloom Tomato Lunch featuring Amy Goldman; Saturday, Sept. 13, 1–2:15 p.m.; $45/person
• Mount Veeder Appellation 9th Annual Tasting featuring Brandlin, Godspeed, Hess, LaTour, Lagier Meredith, Lakoya, Mayacamas, Mount Veeder, O’Shaugnessy, Peter Franus, Random Ridge, Robert Craig, Rubissow, Vinoce, Wing Canyon, and Yates Family; Saturday, Sept. 13, 1–4 p.m.; $35/person
• Hands-on Wine Blending Workshop; Fri.–Sun., Sept. 5–28, 3:15–4:30 p.m.; $65/person (advance only)
• Festa Italiana; Italian street fair with Italian cooking demonstrations and sampling of Italian wines; Sunday, Sept. 28, 10 a.m.–4 p.m.; $20/person

Fiddler’s Green, 1333 Columbus Ave. (at Leavenworth), 415-507-9962, www.thepartyhotline.com:
• International Wine Tasting & Dance Party; Friday, Sept. 5, 8–11:30 p.m.; $20/person

Campton Place Restaurant, 340 Stockton St. (at Sutter), 415-955-5574, www.camptonplacesf.com:
• Rutz Cellars Dinner and Tasting; Tuesday, Sept. 9, 7–10:30 p.m.; $165/person
• New Zealand Wine Dinner; Monday, Sept. 15, 7–10:30 p.m.; $160/person
• Hope & Grace Wine Dinner; Tuesday, Sept. 30, 7–10:30 p.m.; $160/person

Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant, Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market), 415-288-0470, www.fpwm.com:
• Lang & Reed vs. Loire Valley Cabernet Franc & Cheval Blanc with John Skupny; Wednesday, Sept. 10, 4:30–7:30 p.m.
• Veneto Wines with Alan Sobczak; Wednesday, Sept. 24, 4:30–7:30 p.m.

Crushpad, 2573 3rd St. (at 23rd), 415-864-4232, www.chocolateseizure.com:
• Chocolate Seizure 2008; Thursday, Sept. 11, 6–8:30 p.m.; $40/person

Gravity, 3251 Scott St. (at Chestnut), 925-945-8340 www.winesocials.com:
• Marina Wine Tasting Party; Saturday, Sept. 13, 7:30–9:30 p.m.; $20/person in advance, $30/person at the door

Ottimista Enoteca-Café, 1838 Union St. (at Octavia), 415-674-8400, www.ottimistasf.com:
• Italian Lessons & Vino: Traveler Basics; Sunday, Sept. 14, 4–5:30 p.m.; $45/person

Viognier, 222 East 4th Ave. (at B), San Mateo, 650-685-3727, www.viognierrestaurant.com:
• Wines of Burgundy Dinner six-course dinner featuring wines from Maison Leroy, Vincent Girardin and Rene LeClerc; Friday, Sept. 19, 6:30 p.m.; $145/person

Ferry Building Marketplace, 2nd Floor, Port Commission Hearing Room (Embarcadero at Market), 913-385-7376, www.masters_of_wine.org:
• Institute of Masters of Wine 2008 Annual Champagne Tasting; Monday, Sept. 22, 5–9 p.m.; $50/person

SF Camerawork Gallery, 657 Mission St. (at New Montgomery), 415-512-2020, www.uncorkedevents.com:
• Vino Iberico: Wines of Spain & Portugal featuring over 80 wines, artisanal Spanish cheeses, olives and cured meats from A.G. Ferrari and flamenco-inspired music by DJ Sol; Thursday, Sept. 25, 6–9 p.m.; $45/person in advance, $55/person at the door

Ritz Carlton, 600 Stockton St. (at California), 415-356-2232, 800-241-0758, www.californiawineclassic.org:
• California Wine Classic featuring over 20 California wines, cuisine from the Ritz Carlton, silent and live auction, and live music, benefiting the Crohn’s and Colitis Foundation of America; Thursday, Sept. 25, 6 p.m.; $85/person

USS Potomac, Ferry St. (at Pier), 877-329-7377, www.sipsandbitessf.com:
• Sips & Bites on the Bay; Saturday, Sept. 27, 4–6 p.m.; $120/person

E-mail: jeannine@northsidesf.com