No- to-Miss Dish:
Porterhouse and a martini at Alfred's Steakhouse
By Susan Dyer Reynolds


There aren’t many things left in this town that conjure images of Old San Francisco in all its glory. At Northside San Francisco, we are fortunate to have the inimitable writings of Mr. Bruce Bellingham, heir apparent to the great Herb Caen, who keeps that wonderful three-dot about-the-town style alive in his column, “Bellingham by the Bay.” If you want your Old San Francisco glory charbroiled and served with a proper martini, however, head over to Alfred’s Steakhouse.

Opened by a waiter named Alfred Bacchini on Broadway Street in 1928, Alfred’s became the place to see and be seen by politicians, celebrities and the City’s elite. It closed briefly during prohibition and thrived through the heydays of North Beach that brought the beatniks, Finocchio’s and Carol Doda. In 1973, Art Petri and his son, Al, purchased the restaurant, and in 1997, after losing the lease for the coveted valet parking lot across from the eatery, moved to Merchant Street and into the space that once housed the venerable Blue Fox restaurant.

Walking into Alfred’s is like walking into the best part of San Francisco’s past – the dark wood walls are accented with black molding; brass and crystal chandeliers cast a soft, flattering glow; ample, cozy booths of scarlet leather with brass rivets contrast with elegant white tablecloths; and the well-stocked bar’s stools beckon patrons to imbibe in a traditional cocktail before sitting down to dine.

Alfred’s serves dinner Tuesday through Saturday, but on Thursdays, from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., those in the know are treated to the famous Buckaroo Lunch. On your first visit you will receive a pink Buckaroo Luncheon Club badge; every time thereafter, you will receive “one cheap drink, no less or no more.” Start with a Bud, a glass of house wine or a well drink while you peruse the menu, or sip an espresso, coffee or tea after the meal.
In the good ole days, martini lunches were the norm, but now it’s just plain decadent. There’s something truly wonderful about walking into a dark room in the middle of the day, sliding into a big red booth, and ordering a porterhouse and a gently stirred martini. On a recent visit with my friend and Northside S.F.’s Global Affairs correspondent, Matt McFetridge, the porterhouse – a plate-hugging 30-ounce portion of filet and bone-in New York – was big enough to fill up two ravenous carnivores and still leave a hunk for my trusty pit bull, Jasmine Blue (who, being the dog of a food writer, expects no less).

The price tag for this slab of medium rare heaven, served with a side of creamy garlic mashed potatoes or crisp fries, is a reasonable $36. In fact, the prices at Alfred’s, for what you get, are on the small side, while the steaks are just plain humongous: besides the porterhouse, they offer a 30-ounce Chicago rib steak ($36), and a 20-ounce bone-in ($26) or a 16-ounce boneless ($25) New York. For the dainty carnivorous appetite, there’s an 8-ounce filet mignon ($29), and the 12-ounce rib eye steak frites ($19).

The corn-fed beef at Alfred’s arrives as primal cuts (short loins, ribs, tenderloins, and boneless New Yorks) and is dry-aged behind glass in the foyer for up to four weeks. They cook the steaks over Mexican mesquite charcoal that imparts an intensely flavorful smokiness to the juicy meat. Like a lot of chefs I talk to, one of my favorite parts of a good hunk of beef is the fat, and the marbling on our porterhouse was delightfully unctuous.
If steak’s not your thing, there are plenty of other great dishes at Alfred’s. They make a mean “Joe’s Special,” classically created with fresh spinach (the key), ground sirloin, eggs, onions, and mushrooms ($15), as well as panko-crusted wild calamari steak ($13). I love calamari steak, and it’s sadly under-utilized in most restaurants.

For something green and leafy, try the traditional Caesar salad ($5/$8), the crab and shrimp Louie ($19), or the wedge of baby iceberg with Pt. Reyes blue cheese dressing ($6). I was also a huge fan of the split pea soup with ham hocks ($5), a big bowl of hearty pea puree dotted with tender slivers of ham – it was the best I’ve had since my mother’s (and her pea soup was legendary).

For dessert, I couldn’t resist the Italian fried cream ($6.50) – breaded chunks bathed tableside by the waiter in brandy-soaked blue flames, its a dish synonymous with San Francisco’s renowned eateries such as Ernie’s and rarely, if ever, found on menus today. Service at Alfred’s mirrors that era as well – courteous and knowledgeable; there when you need them and scarce when you don’t.

While parking in the financial district can be a bear, Alfred’s offers three hours complimentary at the Hilton Hotel. Be forewarned: it’s only free if you self-park – otherwise it’s just discounted – and the valets don’t always tell you that (at least mine didn’t). The parking was the only glitch for me at Alfred’s, and coming from someone who eats out for a living, that’s a pretty minor complaint.

For anyone who loves great steak and a proper martini in a setting that takes you far away from the hectic world outside, I can’t think of a better way to spend a Thursday afternoon.

Alfred’s Steakhouse: 659 Merchant St. (at Kearny); Buckaroo Lunch, Thursdays only, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner Tue.–Sat. from 5:30 p.m. (closed Sun.-Mon., though they do book private parties those days); 415-781-7058, www.alfredssteakhouse.com
– S. Reynolds