The Inquisitive Traveler
Escape in San Francisco
By Patty Burness


Sometimes the best experiences are in your own backyard. Consider being free of the hassles of flying, the tedium of making sure toiletries are in three-ounce bottles. You might just find it’s more rewarding to look around San Francisco. Recently, my husband and I decided to experience the local hotel scene – while taking public transportation to minimize our carbon footprint. We spent 16 hours at each of three very different properties in the City and had some of the most relaxing, delicious, fun times ever.

Just south of Market Street and conveniently situated, the shimmering turquoise glass of the new InterContinental rises 32 stories. The interior is modern, the lines are sleek and the feel is pure comfort­­. Our room was on the 29th floor enveloped by views of San Francisco through floor-to-ceiling windows. And as we found everywhere we stayed, the beds are plush, the technology kicked up and the unwinding is easy.

No problem getting to dinner – we took the elevator down to Luce, the hotel’s stylish restaurant located street side. Named to celebrate the creation of a Super Tuscan wine, chef Dominique Crenn is at Luce’s helm. She’s talented, focused and exciting. You can taste her passion in every bite.

We paired several of the farm fresh starters – baby lettuce, heirloom tomatoes, and artisan cheeses with a NV Besserat de Bellefon, a French Brut Rosé. Tagliatelle pasta smothered with Dungeness crab, topped with trout caviar and drizzled with a Mandarin olio verde was mouth-watering with a 2006 Thalassitis, an organic dry white from Santorini, Greece. The pintade (guinea fowl) served two ways (pancetta stuffed breast and thigh confit) with white beans and wild mushrooms was tender and juicy with a lively organic 2006 Pinot Noir from Oregon’s Anne Amie vineyard.

Part of our “escape plan” was to visit a sister property of the hotel. After dinner, we zipped up Nob Hill to the Mark Hopkins and the Top of the Mark for after-dinner cocktails and dancing. Sunday night means piped-in music, but the setting is sublime with a panoramic view of San Francisco.

In the morning, we ambled into Club InterContinental. Open most of the day with time-appropriate food service, cocktails and coffee, we found everything we needed to start the day. And then we were off – back to the real world.

Next up was the Hotel Palomar, a quick walk from Muni, five floors up on Fourth Street off Market. This Kimpton hotel exudes a sexy and sophisticated feel – from the dark woods and splashes of color throughout to the low ceilings and parquet wood floors that are laid out in geometric patterns like an M. C. Escher drawing.

The luxe rooms have plenty of space to practice yoga. Forget your props? Not a problem – just phone the front desk and in no time, you’ll have a mat, block and yoga strap; complimentary instruction is offered on the television. Ready to slip into something comfortable? You’ll love the fun leopard, zebra and giraffe print robes, camisoles and boxers (all available for purchase).

Time to join the manager’s wine reception. In the Fifth Floor Bar, guests help themselves to wines selected by Emily Wines, the Fifth Floor’s master sommelier (more on Emily in a minute), and pay as they want according to suggested prices. From here, it’s simply a few steps to dinner at the Fifth Floor Restaurant.

Executive chef Jennie Lorenzo’s featured flavors are a rich combination of what’s available in the Bay Area and in the Gascony region of southwestern France. The tasting menu starts with the wine choice and then pairs the food. It’s fitting because Emily Wines is only the second woman to pass the difficult master sommelier exam (and with the highest score on the first try).

Our gastronomic experience started with a 2006 Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough that had the oyster, shaved jalapeno, balsamic pearls and citrus jus of the kampachi crue dancing. Freshwater eel with oxtail ragout and wild mushrooms was ideal with a 2005 Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin Champs-Chenys. Batting third was the Muscovy duck cassoulet paired with a 2005 Roth Cabernet Sauvignon from Alexander Valley. The richness of chocolate mousse was smoothed nicely with a Dows 20-year Tawny Port and Gascon coffee.

Barely able to move after dinner, we managed to walk to the Sir Francis Drake Hotel for our “sister” experience. We headed to Harry Denton’s Starlight Room for an expansive view, cocktails and dancing to hip hop and rock spun by a D. J.

After coffee the next morning, it was back to work, but with a third experience waiting in the wings.

Conveniently located on Sutter Street in the heart of the financial district, Joie de Vivre’s Galleria Park has the feel of a small European boutique hotel. Housed in a building dating from 1911, the interior combines art deco designs with modern flair. You’ll find a park and jogging track on the third floor. There is also a small fitness center, but upon arrival we preferred joining guests in the lobby for complimentary wine and conversation.

The hotel’s restaurant isn’t open yet, so we chose to walk to Millennium (managed by Joie de Vivre). Executive chef Eric Tucker is a crowd pleaser with his focus on organic products, sustainable and environmentally friendly practices and healthful, vegan cuisine (no animal or dairy products). This gastronomic experience isn’t just for vegetarians.
Instead of a seasonally changing market menu, we opted for dishes that are always available. The sesame-crusted oyster mushrooms, kicked up with an Indonesian spiced bean-plum dipping sauce, paired perfectly with a Prosecco di Valdobbiadene. The Mediterranean roulade, a melange of potatoes, kale, grilled onions, Merguez sausage, and toasted almond romesco sauce came alive with the 2005 L’Hortus Pic Saint Loup (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre blend) from France. And finally, we got exotic with coconut and black pepper-crusted tofu – lemongrass marinated, with grilled oyster mushrooms, red curry sauteed edamame and Asian vegetables, and kaffir.

For dessert and a nightcap, we headed next door to Cortez (in yet another JDV sister property). From the milkshakes for two, the plum galette with burrata sorbet, the sugar and spice beignets with Venezuelan chocolate fondue, to the pistachio-crusted French toast with maple-glazed cherries and pancetta sorbet, sugar consumption was on overload. Each of the desserts paired with a “taste” of something yummy – sauternes, ports, amarones – and added the finishing touch to a perfect evening.
The only things left were to head back to the hotel, crawl into our comfy bed and have sweet dreams.

It’s fun to treat yourself to a getaway in the City. It’s good for your mental health and easy on the environment. You’ll be energized and remember why you live in San Francisco.

Essentials
Where to stay: InterContinental San Francisco, 888 Howard Street (at Fifth), 415-616-6500, www.intercontinentalsanfrancisco.com; rooms from $189 (for California residents with valid identification; Club InterContinental Lounge and Internet access not included); household pets under 50 pounds welcome. Hotel Palomar, 12 Fourth Street (at Market), 415-348-1111, www.hotelpalomar-sf.com; rooms from $199 (ride the rails and receive 20 percent discount); complimentary Internet access; pets welcome. Galleria Park Hotel, 191 Sutter Street (at Kearny), 415-781-3060, www.jdvhotels.com/galleria_park; rooms from $159; complimentary Wi-Fi; pets welcome.

Where to eat and drink: Luce, 888 Howard Street (at Fifth), 415-616-6566, www.lucewinerestaurant.com; appetizers from $9, pastas from $18, entrees from $28, wines by the glass from $9, by the bottle from $30. Top of the Mark, 999 California Street (at Mason), 415-616-6916, www.topofthemark.com; cocktails from $12. The Fifth Floor, 12 Fourth Street (at Market), 415-348-1555, www.fifthfloorrestaurant.com; tasting menu with wine pairing, $180. Harry Denton’s Starlight Room, 450 Powell Street (at Sutter), 415-395-8595, www.harrydenton.com; cocktails from $10. Millennium, 580 Geary Street (at Jones), 415-345-3900, www.millenniumrestaurant.com; salads/starters from $7.25, entrees from $22.95, wines by the glass from $8, by the bottle from $22. Cortez, 550 Geary Street (at Shannon), 415-292-6360, www.cortezrestaurant.com; desserts from $6, liqueur “tastes” from $4.

Patty Burness is the travel writer for Northside San Francisco.
E-mail: patty@northsidesf.com