Best of Northside Food & Wine 2008
Where the night owls go: Best late-night dining
By Marcia Gagliardi

The City is already pretty slim on late-night dining options, and to limit this article to the Northside would make it pretty short. I know, I left out some big ones, like Globe, Yuet Lee, and Liverpool Lil’s, but you know about those spots already, right? Right.

So, of course there’s the Brazen Head (3166 Buchanan Street, 415-921-7600), serving classic American fare until 1 a.m. in Cow Hollow. Chomp on a late-night burger, and their New York steak with brandy, pepper and cream sauce is a signature. Just don’t forget your cash or ATM card – they don’t take credit cards!

And you gotta hand it to Café Maritime (2417 Lombard Street, 415-885-2530), which without fail, even with only one customer on a Tuesday night at midnight, keeps the kitchen open until 1 a.m. nightly. Rub elbows with local restaurant industry staff, including folks from nearby Gary Danko. Dive into a cocktail from the full bar, and there’s also a late-night special from 11 p.m.–1 a.m., which includes beer for $3.50, $4 Fernets, a dozen Hog Island oysters for $13, and a nightly “blue plate” special.

Now, the always-rowdy Harry’s Bar (2020 Fillmore Street, 415-921-1000) is not exactly my scene – at all, really, but I have been grateful for their hot wings and burgers a few times, served until midnight or 1 a.m., depending upon the night. Take advantage of the Monday night special, when you can get the burger, fries, and a draught beer or well cocktail for $8.95. Sold!

I have never been much impressed with the burgers at Grubstake (1525 Pine Street, 415-673-8268) in the Polk Gulch, but the dish that totally does it for me is their Portuguese caldo verde, a hearty kale stew with potato and linguiça. A nice change from the usual late-night fare, and how cute, you’re sitting in a converted rail car. Get your grub on until 4 a.m.
I am so lucky Nopa (560 Divisadero Street, 415-864-8643) is just a short stumble home. This beacon of late-night dining shines brightly until 1 a.m. every night, serving tasty flatbreads, one of the best pork chops in the city, a killer burger, stellar drinks and wines, all in a chic environment. Bless them.

It’s no mistake the Mission has a ton of late-night dining options, just look at all the bars! One place that is a combination bar and late-night eatery is Beretta (1199 Valencia Street, 415-695-1199), almost a Nopa for the Mission, with a kitchen open until 1 a.m. nightly. I have found the Italian small plates and thin-crust pizzas to be a little uneven, but still relatively tasty.

When it gets really late, like, it’s after 2 a.m., I give thanks to El Farolito (2779 Mission Street, 415-824-7877) in the Mission, my little lighthouse for a killer burrito al pastor. The taqueria is open nightly until 2:45 a.m., and Fridays and Saturdays until 3:45 a.m.
El Zocalo (3230 Mission Street, 415-282-2572) is an awesome pupuseria in the Outer Mission, serving until 3 a.m. nightly, 4 a.m. on the weekends. The pupusas con chicharron and the revueltas are delish, and I love ‘em with a side of sour cream, and a shake of hot sauce. The food can take a while to come out, and I mean a while, but it’s worth it. The pupusas are less than $2 a pop – ridiculously cheap.

Feel like something a little more civilized? Cav Wine Bar & Kitchen (1666 Market Street, 415-437-1770) keeps its kitchen open until 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday and until midnight Friday and Saturday. And now with their new affordable menu, nothing is over $20. Cav is also handily within walking distance of the Opera House and Davies Symphony Hall for a postshow bite.

And now this is in the “in case of emergency break glass” category: Did you know the downtown location of Naan and Curry (336 O’Farrell Street, 415-346-1443) across from the Hilton is open 24 hours? No, it’s not the best Pakistani food in the City by a long shot, it’s smoky, and don’t even think about doing the buffet. Just order some tikka masala and naan and get yourself home already.

Marcia Gagliardi also writes a popular weekly e-column about the San Francisco dining scene; subscribe for free at www.tablehopper.com. E-mail marcia@northsidesf.com.