NEWLY NOTABLE
Waterbar
By G. Walden

We came for the seafood and, of course, I would return for the briny, plump oysters, the silky ceviche and the succulent lobster, but I’d also return to sit near and watch Wolfgang and Barbara.

Yes, I know, I know. Wolfgang Puck, like a lot of middle-aged men has divorced his long-time wife, Barbara, and moved on to another, but their namesakes, two amazing Wolf eels, live on in one of the aquariums at Waterbar.

We started out with 10 oysters and a couple of littlenecks for Susan, my dining companion. Once again the Connecticut oysters, which come from Long Island Sound, were the best. When Ron Owens joined me here for lunch a couple of months ago, we raved about these juicy morsels.

I then opted for the sea bass and sea urchin roe, while Susan tucked into a bowl of cold sweet pea soup, garnished with a lemon chantilly and mint oil. It was so rich, she ate about half; I had a couple of spoonsful – a lovely mélange.

One of the highlights of the menu was the fried smelts. Both Susan and I grew up eating them on the East Coast, and Waterbar’s were whole, crisp, and served with fingerling potatoes and aioli.
We both opted for lobsters; Susan the pressed Américaine. This lobster was out of the shell and cooked in a light tomato sauce with cream, shallots, garlic, tarragon, and thyme, then flamed with cognac for a truly impressive dish.

I had the wood oven-roasted one-and-one-quarter-pound lobster – truly moist and tender; however the marble-sized potatoes served with it were a little underdone. We also had some sautéed artichoke hearts, which unfortunately were smothered in too much
tarragon.

But these are small quibbles. I had one bite of a s’more-like dessert, while Susan indulged her sweet tooth.
Waterbar has hit its stride and is a magnet, especially for its outdoor seating on a balmy night. It’s not an inexpensive restaurant, but with the bridge view, the seafood, the professional, yet friendly service, Waterbar will continue to draw crowds. And you can say hi to Wolfgang and Barbara for me.
Waterbar: 399 Embarcadero (near Folsom); lunch daily from 11:30 a.m., dinner nightly from 5:30 p.m.;
415-284-9922, www.waterbarsf.com

– G. Walden