The Tablehopper
Spring Cleaning
By Marcia Gagliardi

Some changes are afoot in North Beach: after a year in business, Nua abruptly closed, and moving into its place is Vicoletto (550 Green St., 415-433-4000), at press time slated to open at the end of May. The name means “little alley” in Italian, and it’s no surprise the name is Italian because the owner, Francesco Covucci, is Calabrese (but has been living in San Francisco for five years), and the chef, Gabriele Lastaria, is Napoletano. They will be putting together a seasonal menu and are committed to using quality ingredients, plus they will be making pastas in-house, like tagliatelle, ravioli and gnocchi. The restaurant will be open for dinner from 5-11 p.m.

One closure locals were happy was not happening is Jazz at Pearl’s (256 Columbus Ave., 415-291-8255)! Kim Nalley, the (now-separated) wife of the owner, reportedly ended up getting the club in the divorce settlement and some new backing money came through, so the club won’t be closing. Nalley sang Tony Bennett’s, “The Best Is Yet To Come” when making the announcement to a packed audience one night in April.

More news in North Beach: I’m hearing the former site of the Pagoda Palace Theater on Washington Square (1741 Powell St.), next to the Washbag space, might become another location for La Corneta Taqueria, a relative to the popular taqueria in Glen Park. I spoke with consultant Martin Kirkwood of Terra Nova Projects, and he filled me in that even though the planning commission meeting is slated for August, the soonest we’d even hope to see anything would be 2010. Owner Joel Campos has had the space for four years, but due to the Telegraph Hill Dwellers’ repeated objections, the project continues to be stymied (he has submitted 10 different designs and concepts and counting for the building, and each one has been shot down). And so the building remains unused.

Here’s a restaurant that is moving ahead: fans of the ever-popular Street on Polk will be happy to know that a second concept called Crave (2164 Polk St.) is opening just across the street in the former Teavana space. Owner John Lamkin and his wife, Lynn Ramsey, will be opening a quick-casual and affordable 45-seat spot, serving breakfast, lunch and an early dinner, all made with seasonal and quality ingredients. The menu will include breakfast favorites like egg sandwiches, house-made scones and breakfast burritos, and lunch will bring some of their mighty good soups, salads and tasty sandwiches that will highlight slow-roasted meats and fish. Dinner will be heartier, and some vegetarian fare will also be available – dishes will span from New American to Latin flair. An expanded brunch will be coming later, with house-smoked salmon and egg dishes. There will also be organic and biodynamic wines on offer, plus some microbrews as well. You can even swing by late afternoon for a bite of some charcuterie or hummus and a glass of wine at the outdoor seats (there will be 12 or so), or inside at the banquettes and tables. Lamkin, a resident of the neighborhood for the past 25 years, really wanted to create a space where it’s easy for people to get the kind of food they want and how they want it, made with quality ingredients, at a good price. He’s currently talking with some potential kitchen partners, but no one is final just yet. Look for an opening in late July, with intended hours of 7 a.m.-7 p.m. or so. They are also discussing curbside service, with breakfast or box lunches to go!

A big project that had the culinary set excited just went kaput: chef Sean O’Brien of the now-shuttered Myth was going to partner with the Sprezzatura Management Group (Andrew McCormack and Joe Hargrave of Frisson and Laïola), and launch a concept together in the Frisson space. Raising money proved to be difficult, and the Sprezzatura Group has decided to part ways as well (reportedly there are no hard feelings). The Frisson space is now on the market, Hargrave will continue focusing on the operations of Laïola, and McCormack is returning to hedge funds. No word on where O’Brien is off to next; stand by.

Speaking of Laïola (2031 Chestnut St., 415-346-5641), did you know they started serving lunch on Saturdays and Sundays from 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.? There is also some new outdoor seating, with room for 12, plus heaters. Enjoy.

In case you’re heading to Campton Place Restaurant (340 Stockton St., 415-781-5555) for some of Boris Portnoy’s extraordinary desserts, unfortunately you will no longer find him there. He’s left the restaurant and is consulting at the moment – we’ll have to see where he lands (I have one idea where that might be). In other news, Campton Place’s executive chef, Srijith Gopinathan, has introduced lunch and dinner menus that blend flavors and ingredients inspired by the Spice Route, the centuries-old trading channel from Asia to Europe.  

Downtown’s hidden French outpost, Les Amis (568 Sacramento St.) has closed. No word yet on who may be buying the space.

Cigar smokers will be pleased to hear Palio D’Asti (640 Sacramento St., 415-395-9800) got a tobacco license and has stocked a humidor with all kinds of stogies. For those who wish to indulge on the premises, Palio will set up a table on the back patio, cut the cigars (they come with a chocolate truffle and a book of Palio wooden matches), and people generally choose a grappa, cognac, brandy, or bourbon to enjoy at the same time. Or you can just take one for the road.

Looks like people will be able to once again say, “Meet me at the Clock.” This summer, Michael Mina is launching his first-ever cocktail lounge, Clock Bar, in the lobby of San Francisco’s historic Westin St. Francis Hotel (335 Powell St.). There will be handcrafted and seasonal cocktails, along with some inventive finger food.

Do you like to cook, or do you only eat out? If the stove doesn’t scare you, Franciscan Restaurant (Pier 43 ½, 415-362-7733) in Fisherman’s Wharf is offering a free recipe book. All you have to do is email comments@franciscanrestaurant.com, request the book, and send them your address. Be sure to tell them the Tablehopper sent ya! Soon you’ll be all set to make crab enchiladas. Don’t forget to invite me.

Marcia Gagliardi also writes a popular weekly e-column about the San Francisco dining scene; subscribe for free at www.tablehopper.com. She writes additionally for San Francisco and Travel + Leisure magazines, and Fodors.com. Got a hot tip? E-mail marcia@northsidesf.com.