The Inquisitive Traveler
The "Best of the West"
By Patty Burness
Photos by Bo Links


The “Best of the West” usually conjures images of scenic mountain ranges, stunning valleys, award-winning wines, and restaurants serving stellar cuisine – but not always. In the world of food competitions, when the Best of the West is mentioned, people are talking ribs, specifically, the annual rib cook-off at John Ascuaga’s Nugget in Sparks, Nev. When the smokers heat up this Labor Day weekend, as they have for the past 19 straight years, don’t miss it.

   Consider this: Just a few exits past Lake Tahoe on Interstate 80, and you’re looking at six days in pork paradise. But it’s not just ribs. You can also savor chicken, turkey legs, corn on the cob, and free entertainment on multiple stages as you stroll through Victorian Square in downtown Sparks. Last year over 500,000 people attended, and more than 100 tons of ribs were consumed. The 2008 cook-off promises to be just as big as the event celebrates its 20th anniversary.

John Ascuaga started his business in 1955 as a coffee shop. He grew the Nugget by adding a variety of restaurants and finally a casino-hotel. Then, 21 years ago, he sent some Nugget employees to Cleveland to observe the National Rib Cook-Off Championships. They convinced participating chefs to come west for the Nugget Cook-Off. The rest is history.

   Last year, the Inquisitive Traveler was privileged to serve as a cook-off judge. Now you get the inside juice on what the pros look for in a prize-winning rib. In 2007, there were 24 entries, spanning the country from Virginia to California, Texas to Minnesota, all competing in what some call the “most prestigious event in the country.” First place garners $7,500. Best sauce wins $500. During the week, as the smell of smoke-cured ribs rises from the grill, cooks vie for something equally important – the public’s approval, which comes in two forms. The first is rib sales to the crowd. There is also a prize affectionately known as the People’s Choice Award. It’s just as coveted as recognition from the judges – it’s the product of consumer votes, and it, too, carries serious bragging rights.

   Walking into Victorian Square is like stepping into another world. A smoky haze permeates the air. Elaborate barbeque smokers – many of them embedded within massive mobile kitchens – line up from one end of the square to the other. These grill masters have put thousands of miles on their equipment crisscrossing America to cook ribs competitively. Best of all, you get to walk around with a smile and sauce all over your face in search of perfect barbeque.

   Some say, the “best” is whatever you make it. But at the Best of the West Cook-Off, judging is serious business. Barbeque veterans, culinary experts and this travel writer were educated about the guidelines of judging a rib winner.

   Appearance is the first criterion – an evenly colored slab with no sign of major burning, coupled with a shiny, moist surface. If you want to win, your ribs had better look good.
   The second criterion is texture – achieved after long, slow cooking with meat that comes off the bone (but doesn’t fall off) and is easy to chew. It should be juicy with a bit of fat, either dry rubbed or coated with sauce. Too much sauce masks the flavor of the meat.
   The final and most challenging criterion is taste – ribs need to have a well-rounded flavor – balanced salt, not too much smoke intensity and added spice that isn’t overpowering.
Now it’s time to judge sauce. Most experts agree about a deep, rusty red color that is thick enough to coat ribs and does not rub off. Sauce should provide a kicked-up sensation without being so spicy hot that it overpowers the flavor of the rib itself.

   At the Best of the West, the contestants start on a level playing field. All must cook the same St. Louis-style pork ribs purchased onsite. St. Louis ribs are considered to have the best meat-to-fat ratio and are the meatiest around.

   Double blind judging takes place in a quiet meeting room inside the Nugget. A panel of 17 judges gets 40 minutes to taste 24 rib entries and the accompanying sauces. The decision-making is intense, but after dutifully weighing each entry against the stated criteria, judges make their determinations.

   There is no conversation between judges as each one tallies an individual ballot. The results are totaled and everyone – the public and judges alike – learns the results the next day when the announcement is made in Victorian Square.

   Last year, there was an unprecedented three-way tie for first place. The head judge broke the deadlock. The winner – Famous Dave’s BBQ from Plymouth, Minn. – got to double dip, winning both the judges’ vote as well as the people’s vote. According to Mike Bowar, the team leader for Famous Dave’s, the secret lies in attention to detail – pulling the ribs out of the pit when they’re done (about four to six hours), holding them for about an hour before putting them back on the grill with sauce to caramelize (about 30 seconds), and then resaucing them after they’re off the grill. The result: rich ribs with a sweet sauce.

   The runners up weren’t exactly slouches. Desperado’s BBQ & Rib Co. of Hinckley, Ohio, pulled down second place. Owner Lee Rice, who’s been competing for 13 years, says his secret is the investment of time and effort – listen to him and you’ll learn that there are no shortcuts to winning ribs. Maui Wowie BBQ Co. (from Reno, not Hawaii) took home third place. Mike Collins and his Maui Wowie crew use a dry rub on the ribs and pineapple juice in the sauce to create their own special brand of excitement.

   Best sauce?  That would be Bay Area Kinder’s Custom Meats of Concord (925-825-2333, www.kindersmeats.com). Owner Dan Kinder wouldn’t divulge his secret ingredient, but if you like sweet sauce with a little bite, he’s got you covered.

   If and when you’re full of ribs, Chonne’s spa awaits inside the Nugget. A full body massage takes out all the kinks and eases the digestive process. Gambling tables and slot machines tempt you on several floors. If that’s not for you, you can always rest in your room and get ready for another round of rib consumption. On the rare chance that you are “ribbed out,” consider one of the Nugget’s many restaurants. You’ll find a different cuisine in every corner of the casino.

   Whatever you choose, the Sparks competition really is the Best of the West. Where else so close to the Northside can you taste the handiwork of two dozen experts, battling to win your vote at one of the biggest gatherings in competitive barbeque? 

Even if you are only an amateur rib maven, check it out. You’ll end with a smile on your face and you’ll be licking your fingers all the way home.

Essentials
   Sparks, Nevada: Is located in the Truckee Meadows of northern Nevada, about 220 miles northeast of San Francisco, www.sparkschamber.org/visitors.php; www.ci.sparks.nv.us/.
   Best of the West Rib Cook-Off: August 27-September 1, Victorian Square, Sparks, Nev. No entrance fee. Enter the lottery on the Web site to have a chance at a table in the exclusive Rib Village, www.nuggetribcookoff.com.
   John Ascuaga’s Nugget Resort Casino: 1100 Nugget Ave., Sparks, Nev. Rooms from $90, 800-648-1177, www.janugget.com. Chonne’s Salon & Spa: massages from $70, www.janugget.com/hotel/chonnes.cfm.

Patty Burness is the travel writer for Northside San Francisco. E-mail patty@northsidesf.com