The Tablehopper
You can practically bake bread from this month's rumor mill
By Marcia Gagliardi


Downtown and Union Square are suddenly percolating with all kinds of news. The big, bold headline is about Urban Tavern, the upcoming 240-seat project at the San Francisco Hilton (333 O’Farrell St.). Donna Scala was hired to conceptualize and develop the high-end gastropub for the hotel – but it ends up she decided to leave the project, and Laurent Manrique and crew are now taking the helm. No confirmed details to release yet about who the chef will be, the actual launch date (although one source told me July), and the concept (I’ve heard Northern Italian/Southern Mediterranean), so stand by.

Meanwhile, Cortez (550 Geary St.) not only has a new owner, Ron Silberstein of Thirsty Bear and Ramblas (Bay Bread sold it to him), but chef Seth Bowden has departed to travel in South Africa and do some stages in Europe – we’ll see where he lands once he returns from his travels in September. Jenn Puccio, formerly the chef of Ramblas, is now the executive chef, while her husband, Ed Puccio, formerly the G.M. of Ubuntu, is the new G.M. Cortez’s sommelier, A.J. Ferrari, has taken the assistant G.M. position.

Just opened in Union Square’s new 337-room JW Marriott San Francisco (formerly the Pan Pacific, at 500 Post St.) is Level III. It’s a stylish freestanding restaurant and lounge on the third floor lobby level. The space takes more of a bar vibe in the evening, with a custom cocktail menu by H. Ehrmann of Elixir Saloon in the Mission. There will be a variety of spaces to linger in, from the communal table to the bar, with both high and low seating options, either in the main restaurant or lounge. Executive chef Ben Mattman and chef Ryan Jette have put together a modern American menu, with bar bites like littleneck clams on the half shell with chorizo and breadcrumbs, saffron seafood chowder, and tempura asparagus. Larger dishes include a lobster club, American Kobe sliders, halibut tacos, and a three-course $45 menu devised for the pretheater crowd, available from 5:30-10 p.m. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, the menus at Level III will change throughout the day.

(Unconfirmed) rumor has it that Morton’s the Steakhouse (400 Post St.) is taking over the closing Disney Store space, and will move upstairs for its a la carte dining, keeping the current downstairs room for banquets.

Since we’re talking rumors, the big ones lately are swirling around who is going into the Myth space (470 Pacific Ave.). The one that seems most likely (and is the most discussed) is that Michael and Lindsay Tusk are moving Quince to the larger digs. But then the very interesting and completely and utterly unconfirmed rumor is that Gordon Ramsey was also looking at it. It’s all talk, talk, talk until the ink dries somewhere – will let you know when that happens.

Just up Columbus, the town is buzzing over the news that the Tiernans (who own Tiernan’s down near the Wharf) have bought the Washington Square Bar & Grill (1707 Powell St.). And attention Washbag regulars: Michael McCourt is rumored to be returning to the bar.

On a healthier and 100 percent confirmed/rumor-free note, vegans are diggin’ the new eats at The Usual Suspects Cafe (450 Broadway St.) in North Beach. The two-level space has a 90 percent vegan menu, serving a few dishes with real cheese, hence the ten percent that’s nonvegan. The menu is mostly Mediterranean comfort food, with some Latin flair. Dishes include pressed taquitos with cashew cheese, seared red pepper, onion, and asparagus with a cashew-based cilantro “sour cream”; shwarma with house-made seitan; some pasta dishes; and quite possibly the only vegan pizza in San Francisco, with an organic cornmeal crust and a variety of toppings. The chefs are Mark Benedetto and Ted Rosenblatt, and the owner is Bob Bosco. Vegan and dairy-free desserts are being baked in-house a few times a week by Sugar Beat Sweets. Each level has 50 seats, and the space has a 1950s diner look – you’ll also hear some surf tunes on the sound system. Beer and wine, and some open-mic comedy nights are underway Thursday through Saturday – look for even more comedy, plus acoustic music down the road. Hours are Tuesday through Friday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m., and Saturday, 5-10 p.m. or later, closed Sunday and Monday.

Also in North Beach, consider this a little teaser (a mere nibble of a sandwich) about some changes to Palermo Delicatessen (1556 Stockton St.). The new owner is Nick Fasanella, formerly of Nick’s Crispy Tacos, and he renamed it La Spiaggia (which means “beach” in Italian) Delicatessen. I know many don’t like saying “ciao” to Frankie and Vinnie, but Nick is certainly not short on personality. I’ll report back on menu changes and more next month.
Over on Russian Hill, after Pasha suffered damage from neighboring restaurant Star of India’s fire, the new owners decided to start from scratch, and have reopened after six months of closure as Cossu (1516 Broadway). The restaurant features an eclectic menu that includes Moroccan, Asian, French, and Californian influences from chef Hicham Senhaji, a native of Morocco. Sample dishes on the menu are Moroccan pan-seared scallops with pine nut couscous, or cumin and anise seed-crusted rack of lamb, plus brochettes and bastillas. The interior will be outfitted with rich fabrics, including an overhead canopy of satin anchored with a hand-carved ceiling centerpiece. Guests can come in for dinner in the main dining room, or for drinks and appetizers in the lounge.
Mercury Appetizer Bar (1434 Lombard St.) has closed, and is going to be moving to a bigger location, in the SoMa area. I know the where, but can’t release the info juuuuuust yet.

Did you know Jovino (2184 Union St.) in Cow Hollow hosts a monthly Wine Social? July 25 will feature Carmel Road Vineyards. Happy hour is from 6-9 p.m., and is $20 for unlimited tasting. Cheers!

Marcia Gagliardi also writes a popular weekly e-column about the San Francisco dining scene; subscribe for free at www.tablehopper.com. She writes additionally for San Francisco and Travel + Leisure magazines, and Fodors.com. Got a hot tip? E-mail marcia@northsidesf.com.