The Tablehopper
Jackson Square starts buzzing again
By Marcia Gagliardi

Since I took last month off from my column for the “Best of Northside” issue, we have a lot of catch-up to do! First, over at neighborhood favorite Cafe Majestic (1500 Sutter Street), there’s a new chef at the helm, Louis Maldonado, formerly a coexecutive chef at Cortez. He is back in San Francisco after a year of working the meat and fish stations at The French Laundry. Some sample main dishes include slow-cooked suzuki with Tokyo turnips and matsutake mushrooms in their bouillon, and confit of suckling pig with poached quince, glazed sunchokes, creamed mustard greens, and niçoise olive jus. Maldonado is excited to be back in the City, and says, “It’s really time to show everyone what I’ve got.” After a year at The Laundry, I expect it’ll be delicious.

Let’s take a look at the projects happening in North Beach and the Jackson Square area. Zinnia (500 Jackson Street) has opened for dinner in the former Scott Howard space, so for those missing the food at Myth, here’s your chance to return to executive chef Sean O’Brien’s cuisine (like the gnocchi!). For those who love cocktails, the talented and inventive Jackie Patterson, recently of Orson, is behind the bar. Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday, and the bar is open nightly at 5 p.m. for cocktails.

For those wondering about the timing of the Quince opening in the former Myth space (470 Pacific Avenue), it’s looking like 2009 for now, but stand by.

More Myth-related news: work is finally underway at Pickles (42 Columbus Avenue), in the old Clown Alley. Tom Duffy (of Myth) is behind the project – the 50-year-old restaurant is currently being remodeled (the outdoor patio is getting an outdoor fireplace and a retractable awning), and very optimistically reopening in mid-December. The final menu isn’t worked out just yet, but gourmet burgers, Chicago-style hot dogs and frozen custard are in the plans. Also look for late night hours on the weekends.

Just around the corner, Cafe Prague (584 Pacific Avenue) has closed. According to permits, it is planning to reopen in the Financial District at 424 Merchant Street and is also listed on a permit in the Mission.

The new bar and eatery Taverna Aventine (582 Washington Street) is a stylish spot for a FiDi lunch, or for hanging out after the whistle blows at the stock market. The Old World-inspired space has two bars serving some historic San Francisco cocktails and wine and beer. The look is inspired by the area’s Barbary Coast history, and the downstairs includes 150-year-old floor-to-ceiling brick walls stained by years of seawater. The seasonal California-Italian menu is geared for lunch or bar bites, with shellfish, meats, piadine, and salads.

More North Beach news: the Washbag (1707 Powell Street) hit some building department snags, so now we’re looking at early 2009 for the opening. Stand by…
This deal should make folks watching their wallet (er, everyone) happy: El Raigon (510 Union Street) is offering half off all wine on Monday nights from now through December, with the purchase of one entree per person. Presto, that Malbec just got downright cheap.
More affordable eats: over in the Upper Polk, Crave (2164 Polk Street) has opened in the former Teavana space. The quick-casual spot is from John Lamkin and Lynn Ramsey of Street and serves breakfast, lunch and an early dinner, all made with seasonal, quality ingredients. The menu includes breakfast faves like egg sandwiches, house-made scones and breakfast burritos; lunch brings some soups, salads and tasty sandwiches that highlight slow-roasted meats and fish. Dinner is heartier, and some vegetarian fare is also available – dishes span from New American to Latin flair. Coffee is from Ritual Roasters. Hours are 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Over the hill in the Marina, the 65-seat Chilayo (2150 Chestnut Street) opened in the old Andale spot. This is the third venture from owner Jorge Saldana of Tlaloc in the Financial District and Cancun in Berkeley. Chilayo is a Jaliscan stew-like dish of pork loin with vegetables, and Saldana said to expect some new dishes on Chilayo’s menu, many inspired by the mercado and sidewalk stands of Mexico. The opening menu includes authentic and affordable enchiladas, tamales, tlacoyos, plus a number of tortas, a taquito daily special, and seafood dishes. Everything is à la carte, instead of the standard beans and rice combo plates. Ingredients from Saldana’s organic farm in Sonoma County will be featured, including a variety of heirloom tomatoes and peppers (hello salsas!), and even farm-fresh eggs. Lunch and dinner served daily, with breakfast on the weekends.
Not too far away, Nettie’s Crab Shack (2032 Union Street) has opened in Cow Hollow, in the former Palmetto space. The East Coast-meets-California fish shack menu includes BBQ oysters with a beer chaser, steamers with drawn butter in a pail, plus nonfishy items like hangar steak and roasted chicken, with sides like jalapeno spoon bread and butterscotch pudding for dessert. None of the wines are over $50. Lunch served Monday through Friday, dinner nightly, and brunch on the weekends.

Bushi-tei is opening a second restaurant in Japantown this winter, Bushi-Tei Bistro (1581 Webster Street). It will include a wine bar and seating for 80 on the ground floor of the Kinokuniya Building, offering a more casual menu with affordable prices.

Also near Japantown, DOSA on Fillmore (1700 Fillmore Street) opened the Friday after Thanksgiving. The look is stylish and shimmery, and the spacious kitchen means they will be turning out some South Indian dishes that you can’t find anywhere in the City. There’s a full bar (Jonny Raglin of Absinthe is leading the bar development program), plenty of seats and a mezzanine that’s perfect for private parties.

In case you are looking for somewhere new for brunch, Restaurant Cassis (2101 Sutter Street) in the lower Fillmore is now serving one. The menu includes omelets, poached egg dishes, caramelized French toast, and some more lunchy items – perfect for a weekend brunch (or lunch) date followed by a movie at the nearby Sundance Kabuki.
Have you had a chance to check out SPQR’s (1911 Fillmore Street) Tuesday night fried chicken? It’s a large half chicken for $20, mostly boned, and large enough for two to share. Bwok!

And now, let’s finish with something sweet. Over in Ghirardelli Square, Crown & Crumpet (900 North Point Street) has opened, serving a continental breakfast (with croissants and the like from Patisserie Philippe), a light luncheon, British tea in the afternoon, and early evening bites and drinkies like Champagne, sherries, ports, and Madeiras.
Plus there are house-made scones, finger sandwiches and clotted cream. Teas are from Lupicia, Harney and Sons, Tea Palace from London, Le Palais des Thés from Paris, and Lindsay’s Teas, among others. I also read it’s a “doily-free zone,” and their in-house pastry chef, Caroline Romanski, has quite the Bay Area pedigree. Cheers, darling.

Marcia Gagliardi also writes a popular weekly e-column about the San Francisco dining scene; subscribe for free at www.tablehopper.com. She writes additionally for San Francisco and Travel + Leisure magazines, and Fodors.com. Got a hot tip? E-mail
marcia@northsidesf.com.