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The Inquisitive Traveler
The Swiss Riviera: Little San Francisco

By Patty Burness


SwitzerlandIf the economy and the airlines don’t have you down, and you think carbon offsets are worth the investment, then head to Switzerland for a spectacular autumn. You actually won’t lose any money converting from the dollar to the Swiss franc (at least at the time this article was written). The north shore of Lac Lemon, as the Swiss call Lake Geneva, is idyllic with small towns dotting the foothills just east of Lausanne. And together with Lavaux, the wine region rising steeply from the lake, the Swiss Riviera became my stomping ground for several days of exploration. Fitting: The area is often referred to as Little San Francisco because of its hills and bridges.

WineIn 2007, Lavaux was named a UNESCO World Heritage site. This winemaking area is on the World Heritage List because of its “outstanding universal value” – its history and deep commitment to preservation, cultural traditions and the local resources (grapes). Winemaking actually began here in the 12th century by monks from the Burgundy region of France. When the church lost the property in 1536, the vineyards became private. And since then, these wines are known almost worldwide (the U.S. is not one of their major markets however), and contribute to the economic prosperity of Lavaux. It’s perched neatly between Lausanne to the west and Montreux (the site of well-regarded jazz fests) to the east. The views are stunning – Evian, France sits directly across the lake, as do the snow-covered peaks of the French Alps and, of course, Mont Blanc. The wow factor is huge.

SwitzerlandA quick drive outside Lausanne and you’re in the Lavaux. Looking directly up from the road that runs along the lake, vineyards cling to ordered, terraced slopes framed by stone walls. Because of the angle of the vineyards, everything is harvested manually. Sixty-nine percent of the grapes produced in Switzerland are the Chasselas grape. Pinot Noir and Gamay are the next most popular, making up about 10 percent each. The vines are planted with the most southerly exposure to what is called the “three suns” – the direct sunlight, the heat stored in the walls, and the reflection from the lake. The diverse soils in each appellation were formed from glacier erosion. Time to drive up to 2,000 feet to the top of the vineyards (the level of the lake is at 1,200 feet) and taste some wine.

Located in the small town of Lutry, Domaine Daly has been producing wine since 1392. The Severin family grows grapes in several of the Lavaux appellations including Villette where I visited. Picture sitting on their terrace, with breathtaking views overlooking Lake Geneva and sipping a Chasselas – the wine is light, fruity and elegant. Tour the original winemaking building and cellar, and taste their Pinot Noirs or the Swiss Sushi wine – mostly Chasselas, but with some Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Their goal is simple: Respect the great soil and make the best wine.
Switzerland
From there, it was on to Dezeley and the wines of Patrick Fonjallaz. Since 1552, he is the 13th generation of his grape growing family. In fact, it is one of the world’s oldest family companies. Fonjallaz produces several grand crus you won’t forget, including a Pinot and of course, a Chasselas. Because of the vineyard and winery’s position on the steep slopes, you feel like doing a high dive from the terrace right into the lake – it’s that enticing.

Stop anywhere in the small towns of Lutry, Dezelay, Espesses, Riex, Cully and take in the local culture. You will see firsthand that space is important for grapes, not houses. Pick up local cheeses, meats, and of course a bottle of wine for a picnic or hike along the Route de Vignoble that runs right through the Lavaux from Lausanne to Montreux.
Before heading back to Lausanne, a stop at the Chillon Castle in Montreux is essential. It’s the most famous castle built on a rock island in Europe, and dates from the Middle Ages. One side of the castle is a fortress facing the ancient road to Italy, and the other is a stately residence facing Lake Geneva. The wow factor is at an all time high again – the views are phenomenal. The castle is immortalized in Lord Byron’s famous poem, The Prisoner of Chillon, written in 1816.

SwitzerlandThere’s no better way to enjoy the lake then by taking a cruise on a Belle Epoque paddle steamer. For over a century, they have been circumnavigating the lake, and leave regularly from Lausanne and the Lavaux. Many people commute from French destinations to Swiss cities and towns, and daily voyages for tourists are always available. Originally floating palaces, these revered vessels figure prominently in Swiss national heritage. The views from La Suisse, built in 1910, were stunning – the moon, the mountains and the sunset.

During my tour of the Swiss Riviera, the Beau Rivage Palace became my home. Conveniently located in Ouchy, the part of Lausanne immediately lakeside, it’s only a 90-minute train ride from the Geneva airport. This five-star hotel dates back to 1861 and is a real beauty. From the Bulgari amenities to the ornate furnishings and international cuisine, the property is unabashedly luxurious. My room had a wide-angle view with French doors that opened right to a vista of Lake Geneva, the mountains and the hotel’s 10-acre park. But no time to stay inside; time to explore Lausanne.

It’s easy to get around the city (you might even think you were climbing the hills of S.F.). Use your rail pass on the public buses. Don’t miss the Place San Francois – the main square and shopping area. And as the capital of the International Olympic Committee, Lausanne has a grand museum in the committee’s honor (situated on the lush grounds of the Beau Rivage Palace). It is also a city rich with many other museums and galleries. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, a lively farmers’ market is in full swing. In the evening, head for the Flon – the trendy area next to the Rhone River where you’ll find art, entertainment and restaurants. And whether you eat there or in a cozy place snuggled next to the lakeshore, be sure to try Swiss specialties – saucisse aux choux (cabbage filled sausage) served with papet vaudois (leek and potato stew), taille aux greubons (puff pastry garnished with small bacon bits) and certainly fondue and tomme (soft cheese).

The Swiss Riviera is a hidden gem. The living is easy in Lausanne and the Lavaux. And the best part is you might not feel like you’re breaking the bank to enjoy this slice of heaven. It’s well worth the trip, just don’t forget the carbon offsets.


Essentials

Getting there: Fly San Francisco to Geneva through JFK, www.expedia.com/gogreen; http://www.eco.orbitz.com. Take the train directly from the Geneva airport to Lausanne or rent a car. Swiss Tourist Information: www.myswitzerland.com. Lake Geneva Tourist Office: www.lake-geneva-region.ch. Lausanne Tourism: www.lausanne-tourisme.ch; Lavaux Tourism: www.lavaux.com; www.ovv.ch/e/home. Swiss Railway Passes: depending on the pass, they can be good for several days on public buses; www.myswitzerland.com/en/page.cfm/93745. UNESCO World Heritage List: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list

Accommodations & dining: Beau-Rivage Palace, Place duPort 17-19, CH-1000, Lausanne, rooms from $438, 011-41-21-613-3333, www.brp.ch; Le Vieil Ouchy, Place du Port 3, Ouchy (Lausanne); Bavaria, 10, rue du Petit Chene, Lausanne, www.labavaria.ch; Café Romand, 2, Place St. Francois, Lausanne, www.caferomand.com; Le Pur, Rue du Port-Franc 17, Flon (Lausanne); www.pur-flon.ch; Auberge de Riex, 24, rte. de la Corniche, Riex (Lavaux), ghislainemagnin@bluewin.ch; Auberge de l’Onde, Rue Romaine, St. Saphorin (Lavaux), www.aubergedelonde.ch.

Must do: Domaine du Daley winery, www.daley.ch; Patrick Fonjallaz winery, www.fonjallaz.info; Chillon Castle, www.chillon.ch/en/.

A Taste of Switzerland in the Northside: Berthoud Vineyards & Winery Sonoma Valley Chasselas Dore 2006, $20; available at The Jug Shop, 1590 Pacific Ave., 415-885-2922, www.jugshop.com.

Patty Burness is the travel writer for Northside San Francisco. E-mail patty@northsidesf.com

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